You may remember (that is, if there are actually, factually people out there reading this) reading my blog of Jan. 6th that included a link to a video about making starter pots out of newspaper. If you've tried this, you no doubt have made some adjustments to the procedure. We made our first pots last night, and here's how we changed the process:
1. I thought that using a whole sheet of newspaper was too much...too much newspaper, more difficult to fold into the glass, plus I hoped that using less might make it easier to break down in the soil so that we could just plant the seedling pot and all instead of removing it from the pot. I like to jostle the seedlings as little as possible! So I started with half a sheet of newspaper.
2. Then I was folding it into thirds (again, less newspaper on the sides, bottom) rather than half and then half again, so that I could have a little taller pot to start out with. I can also, then, have a little more length at the bottom so that I'm sure to completely cover the bottom and not have soil drop out.
3. I folded the top over a little, like 1/2 an inch or so, thinking that it will hold it all together a little better.
4. Finally, I used a jar to roll the newspaper up with because I don't have a straight sided drinking glass and didn't want to go buy one. I also used a slightly smaller jar to mash down into the pot to flatten the bottom better.
5. Into the soil that we fill each pot with, we'll be mixing in our home made compost so that we really give our seeds a great medium to start in. I'm also planning on using a very low dose of BiOWiSH-Aqua™ on a control group of seedlings once they sprout to see what difference it will make on their rate of growth and production. The BiOWiSH Technologies folks have done a study on hydroponically grown lettuce and BiOWiSH-Aqua™ with great results.
6. I know they recommended, in the video, removing the pot before planting. Hubby says the pots will break down "in no time". I'm alittle worried about stunting the growth by making it more difficult for the roots to spread out into the garden soil. I'm thinking that putting slits into the newspaper every 1/2 inch or so will reduce the effort that the roots have to go through to break out of their pots. We may have a control group for this, as well.
We're ready with our pots, and the trays that they'll set in. Hubby is online right now ordering our seeds. I'm even going to start my impatients from seed. I never have before, but he has, so I'm willing to give it the college try. I figure I'll save about $50 on the impatients alone. I hope it works, because my front yard, raised bed for impatients next to my porch are a highlight of my summer!
We have a garden window in our kitchen made for plants. It has traditionally housed only succulents and cacti, because it faces south and I have had a challenge keeping greenery watered enough. With hubby's help and extra care, we've added a potted oregano plant that has been doing just fine. Into this window, we'll be putting 4 trays of starter pots (28 pots in each tray). Another 4 trays (containing the same number of pots) will go under a grow light in the garage. Wish us luck. I have my mouth all set for those vegies!
Happy Composting!
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
Chickens in Urban Gardens
When I was young we used to get fresh eggs and bushels of apples right off the trees from a small farm in Ontario, Canada. I remember they always tasted so fabulous, and now that I'm grown, and I know how long produce can sit on shelves in storage areas or on trucks or railcars, I know exactly why the food straight from the farmer's doorstep tasted so much better. It made complete sense to me, then, when I read an article about a movement that's been formed here in Denver, Colorado to make getting and keeping a permit for livestock a whole lot easier. The article, called "Fowl lovers unite to streamline Denver chicken laws" by Joel Warner was in The Denver Post on Monday, Mar. 16 2009.
Right now it seems to be a somewhat expensive and time consuming process to get and keep a permit. But personally, I'm all for people being more responsible for their own consumption, so anything that makes that process easier is okay by me. I mean, look at the benefits:
· It's fast acting
· It's cost effective
· It's operative at low dosage rates
· It works in a wide range of operative conditions
· It has a long residual effective period
· It's all natural anti-microbial action – sanitizes as it works
· 100% organic
· and it's harmless to humans and the environment
Maybe I need to share the above with the Denver Community Planning and Development spokesman Julius Zsako. He expects a city council discussion "sometime in the near future".
I think the City Council needs to know about BiOWiSH-Odor™ so they can be relieved of worries on the point of odor issues. Just sayin'. By the way, the article in The Denver Post also expected the proposed changes to-
Right now it seems to be a somewhat expensive and time consuming process to get and keep a permit. But personally, I'm all for people being more responsible for their own consumption, so anything that makes that process easier is okay by me. I mean, look at the benefits:
- You know what you're eating, what's gone into it and what hasn't
- It's fresher
- Growing your own reduces transportation and storage costs and expenses
- It tastes better when you've worked for it
- A sense of accomplishment
- It should be less expensive
· It's fast acting
· It's cost effective
· It's operative at low dosage rates
· It works in a wide range of operative conditions
· It has a long residual effective period
· It's all natural anti-microbial action – sanitizes as it works
· 100% organic
· and it's harmless to humans and the environment
Maybe I need to share the above with the Denver Community Planning and Development spokesman Julius Zsako. He expects a city council discussion "sometime in the near future".
I think the City Council needs to know about BiOWiSH-Odor™ so they can be relieved of worries on the point of odor issues. Just sayin'. By the way, the article in The Denver Post also expected the proposed changes to-
"go through without much of a feathered fight. After all, the city council
voted last November to allow residents to keep beehives in their backyards
and officials seem to be similarly convivial to this proposal.
"I'm for anything that makes the process easier, as long as it's effective,"
says Denver Animal Care and Control's Kelley."
I'd be curious to know just how many people in Denver would really be interested and inclined to have chickens in their urban gardens. I wonder if anybody has studied that? I know I'd like to have some chickens in my garden. They don’t have to take up much room, and oh, for fresh eggs once again!
Friday, February 19, 2010
Calling Out for Recipes
I’ve been here blogging for 53 days and, so far, I have no fans. Does that mean that no body even reads these? I’m thinking maybe not, maybe it doesn’t mean that because last night I was reading a blog written by a woman who quit her 9 to 5 job and moved to a small farm in northern Michigan. I guess I didn’t have to become a fan to read her blog. So maybe there are folks out there who read this. If so, and you have a recipe to share, I hope you’ll let me know. I must say that I’d be thrilled to get ANY recipe, but I am particularly calling out for recipes that will include fresh veggies that I plan to grow in my garden. Even more particularly, but not exclusively, recipes for GREENS.
The reason I bring this up now, when it's still only mid-February and there's still snow on the ground is that I was at Home Depot yesterday perusing the seed packets. Red Swiss Chard caught my eye, partly because the leaves remind me of beet greens, which I love, love, love! But I’ve never cooked Swiss chard before. (Call me backward, if you must!) In my defense, since I’m probably the only one who will put up defense, I know it’s healthy as all get out. Heck, back in the day, I used to juice chard leaves with carrots and apple, sometimes with wheat grass thrown in for added enzyme, free radical kickin’ punch. Few things in life beat the antioxidant rush of freshly juiced veggies! Especially those grown organically, eh?
So I know I can use chard leaves in a juicer, but I would have to redesign my garden for that program big time. Plus, the seed packet of interest indicated that, at least in this variety, the stalks were prized as much as the leaves. What to do with the stalks? For the leaves, I like to steam them until they wilt, then give them a nice, ice cold bath. Chop them up and sauté them in a little olive oil with chopped onion and garlic, add a little salt and pepper and a tsp of bacon drippings for flavor. Simmer for about 10 minutes to let the flavors blend together and it’s ready to eat! Yum!
If you’re out there, reading but not becoming a fan, and would like to share a recipe or two for healthy (I know I forgot to specify healthy before) vegetables, please feel free! I’d love to hear from you!
The reason I bring this up now, when it's still only mid-February and there's still snow on the ground is that I was at Home Depot yesterday perusing the seed packets. Red Swiss Chard caught my eye, partly because the leaves remind me of beet greens, which I love, love, love! But I’ve never cooked Swiss chard before. (Call me backward, if you must!) In my defense, since I’m probably the only one who will put up defense, I know it’s healthy as all get out. Heck, back in the day, I used to juice chard leaves with carrots and apple, sometimes with wheat grass thrown in for added enzyme, free radical kickin’ punch. Few things in life beat the antioxidant rush of freshly juiced veggies! Especially those grown organically, eh?
So I know I can use chard leaves in a juicer, but I would have to redesign my garden for that program big time. Plus, the seed packet of interest indicated that, at least in this variety, the stalks were prized as much as the leaves. What to do with the stalks? For the leaves, I like to steam them until they wilt, then give them a nice, ice cold bath. Chop them up and sauté them in a little olive oil with chopped onion and garlic, add a little salt and pepper and a tsp of bacon drippings for flavor. Simmer for about 10 minutes to let the flavors blend together and it’s ready to eat! Yum!
If you’re out there, reading but not becoming a fan, and would like to share a recipe or two for healthy (I know I forgot to specify healthy before) vegetables, please feel free! I’d love to hear from you!
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
How to Build a Backyard Pond
We all know how relaxing it is to listen to the trickle of water, to watch fish swim lazily in an aquarium or pond. Backyard ponds also have the benefit of taking up space that might otherwise be taken up by lawn, and lawns are notorious water users. As we all move to more sustainable living, backyard ponds have increased in popularity. They provide habitat and reduce water usage in a yard.
However, there is the big headache that ponds come with - blue algae. It can quickly suck all the enjoyment out of having a backyard pond when you find yourself researching algae removal products, finding a supplier, mixing and adding, and adding some more. Well, I have five very important words for you...BiOWiSH™ Pond and Tank Conditioner. This is the most powerful Microbial Enzyme technology available anywhere, and it will rapidly remove organic contaminants from your water. These contaminants are converted to their final elements, which are off-gassed as nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide and water vapor. In the process your water is kept clean, free of nutrients and algae and in good chemical balance just as nature intended. You'll want to order a packet along with the backyard pond building materials you'll be using so that you're all set to go. Then follow the easy steps below for a lovely water feature of your own.
How to Build a Backyard Pond Courtesy of Sutherlands Lumber
Step 1 - Locate
To determine the location of your new pond, keep in mind the layout of your yard and the type of plants that you wish to use. Place a preformed pond liner in the predetermined location, stand inside it and outline the shape on the ground with a shovel. If you will be using the sheet-style of pond liner, use a garden hose to outline the shape you’ve chosen.
Step 2 - Excavate
Dig a hole just a little larger and deeper than the pond.
Step 3 - Backfill
Bed the hole with a layer of compacted sand, place the preformed plastic pond or sheet liner in and level it. Using loose dirt or sand, fill in around it. Stop when perimeter is half full.
Step 4 - Fill With Water
Alternately fill the pond with water and backfill perimeter with dirt or loose sand a little at a time so that both the pond and the hole are completely filled and these steps are finished concurrently. If you are using chlorinated water, wait 24 to 48 hours before placing plants or fish into the pond. Place stones or paving bricks naturally around the perimeter to cover the edge.
Step 5 - Now Enjoy!
By installing two or more ponds adjoining each other, you can create a small water park or borders for a bridge. Washed, decorative stones may be placed on the bottom of the pond. Dirt and sediment that fall in will be less noticeable. Sutherlands also carry water runs to make installing a custom waterfall easy. Aquatic lighting will enhance your pond at night.
Some flowers that do well in the moist soil around your pond are Marigolds, Irises, Forget-me-nots and mint. This last you might want to consider planting in containers as they are famous for spreading! Choices of plants for in the pond are numerous, including a prolific variety of lilies. Some plants are restricted in certain states, so be sure to check before ordering.
Fish are a nice addition to your pond, but beware of critters that eat them! You may want to go with inexpensive, hardy goldfish rather than expensive koi. You’ll be less concerned that way if you look out a window one day, wondering where your fish are going, and you see a heron standing next to your pond with a fish in it’s beak. There are decoy herons available online that may discourage live herons from eating your fish, as they are very territorial birds.
However, there is the big headache that ponds come with - blue algae. It can quickly suck all the enjoyment out of having a backyard pond when you find yourself researching algae removal products, finding a supplier, mixing and adding, and adding some more. Well, I have five very important words for you...BiOWiSH™ Pond and Tank Conditioner. This is the most powerful Microbial Enzyme technology available anywhere, and it will rapidly remove organic contaminants from your water. These contaminants are converted to their final elements, which are off-gassed as nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide and water vapor. In the process your water is kept clean, free of nutrients and algae and in good chemical balance just as nature intended. You'll want to order a packet along with the backyard pond building materials you'll be using so that you're all set to go. Then follow the easy steps below for a lovely water feature of your own.
How to Build a Backyard Pond Courtesy of Sutherlands Lumber
Step 1 - Locate
To determine the location of your new pond, keep in mind the layout of your yard and the type of plants that you wish to use. Place a preformed pond liner in the predetermined location, stand inside it and outline the shape on the ground with a shovel. If you will be using the sheet-style of pond liner, use a garden hose to outline the shape you’ve chosen.
Step 2 - Excavate
Dig a hole just a little larger and deeper than the pond.
Step 3 - Backfill
Bed the hole with a layer of compacted sand, place the preformed plastic pond or sheet liner in and level it. Using loose dirt or sand, fill in around it. Stop when perimeter is half full.
Step 4 - Fill With Water
Alternately fill the pond with water and backfill perimeter with dirt or loose sand a little at a time so that both the pond and the hole are completely filled and these steps are finished concurrently. If you are using chlorinated water, wait 24 to 48 hours before placing plants or fish into the pond. Place stones or paving bricks naturally around the perimeter to cover the edge.
Step 5 - Now Enjoy!
By installing two or more ponds adjoining each other, you can create a small water park or borders for a bridge. Washed, decorative stones may be placed on the bottom of the pond. Dirt and sediment that fall in will be less noticeable. Sutherlands also carry water runs to make installing a custom waterfall easy. Aquatic lighting will enhance your pond at night.
Some flowers that do well in the moist soil around your pond are Marigolds, Irises, Forget-me-nots and mint. This last you might want to consider planting in containers as they are famous for spreading! Choices of plants for in the pond are numerous, including a prolific variety of lilies. Some plants are restricted in certain states, so be sure to check before ordering.
Fish are a nice addition to your pond, but beware of critters that eat them! You may want to go with inexpensive, hardy goldfish rather than expensive koi. You’ll be less concerned that way if you look out a window one day, wondering where your fish are going, and you see a heron standing next to your pond with a fish in it’s beak. There are decoy herons available online that may discourage live herons from eating your fish, as they are very territorial birds.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Classes for Composting Project
Pepsi has a very cool philanthropic streak. Did you know that Pepsi has a website, http://www.refresheverything.com/, where individuals, non profit organizations and businesses (those earning less than $250,000/year) can apply for grant money? How cool is that?!?!
A few years ago I attended a grant writing class and was fascinated at the thought of getting funded for charitable projects. I even wrote the idea down in my goal planner – “Within 5 years, write a grant”.
My notes from the class resurfaced from the depths of my stacks of notebooks, rather unexpectedly last week. This happened right after my husband and I were discussing a project dear to our hearts. See, we know that in Sweden, Joraform composters are being put to use in preschools and grade schools throughout the country. In this project, the students learn about the importance of reducing, reusing and recycling, and the impact that these practices have on our environment. The amount of kitchen waste from the cafeteria and the water used to run a garbage disposal are greatly reduced by composting. An added benefit is the compost that results and can be put to use naturally fertilizing gardens and lawns.
All good, yes? We think so too, which is why we would like to provide composters, BiOWiSH™ Compost Boost (a composting accelerant), some extra composting supplies and tools, and training in schools in our area. That’s what we were discussing when I found my grant writing class notes! Just a strange coincidence? Maybe.
I have to say, though, that the notes, and memories from the class that came back to me made grant writing sound a little like a military campaign. According to the class, you need a group of people for the grant writing process, which includes plenty of researching, planning, writing and follow up time. Unfortunately a daunting prospect!
Then yesterday I saw an advertisement for the Pepsi grants website and got jazzed again at the thought of being able to do charitable projects (with other people’s money!). (Another coincidence?) I’d love to be in a position to fund my own projects with my own riches…if I had any, which I don’t, so I won’t. But the Pepsi application process was straightforward and fairly easy to complete, walking you through the procedure. The biggest difficulty I encountered was deciding which category to enter my project under, education or the environment? Really it should be under both categories, but as a teacher, I chose the former.
Pepsi accepts 1,000 project ideas each month! I found out about it too late for the February submission. But I did complete my application, which will be posted on March 1st. So PLEASE help me get approval for my project in March. You can go to: http://www.refresheverything.com/categories/education and (make sure you’re in the education category) PLEASE, PLEASE consider voting for my “Classes for Composting” project! Thank you!
A few years ago I attended a grant writing class and was fascinated at the thought of getting funded for charitable projects. I even wrote the idea down in my goal planner – “Within 5 years, write a grant”.
My notes from the class resurfaced from the depths of my stacks of notebooks, rather unexpectedly last week. This happened right after my husband and I were discussing a project dear to our hearts. See, we know that in Sweden, Joraform composters are being put to use in preschools and grade schools throughout the country. In this project, the students learn about the importance of reducing, reusing and recycling, and the impact that these practices have on our environment. The amount of kitchen waste from the cafeteria and the water used to run a garbage disposal are greatly reduced by composting. An added benefit is the compost that results and can be put to use naturally fertilizing gardens and lawns.
All good, yes? We think so too, which is why we would like to provide composters, BiOWiSH™ Compost Boost (a composting accelerant), some extra composting supplies and tools, and training in schools in our area. That’s what we were discussing when I found my grant writing class notes! Just a strange coincidence? Maybe.
I have to say, though, that the notes, and memories from the class that came back to me made grant writing sound a little like a military campaign. According to the class, you need a group of people for the grant writing process, which includes plenty of researching, planning, writing and follow up time. Unfortunately a daunting prospect!
Then yesterday I saw an advertisement for the Pepsi grants website and got jazzed again at the thought of being able to do charitable projects (with other people’s money!). (Another coincidence?) I’d love to be in a position to fund my own projects with my own riches…if I had any, which I don’t, so I won’t. But the Pepsi application process was straightforward and fairly easy to complete, walking you through the procedure. The biggest difficulty I encountered was deciding which category to enter my project under, education or the environment? Really it should be under both categories, but as a teacher, I chose the former.
Pepsi accepts 1,000 project ideas each month! I found out about it too late for the February submission. But I did complete my application, which will be posted on March 1st. So PLEASE help me get approval for my project in March. You can go to: http://www.refresheverything.com/categories/education and (make sure you’re in the education category) PLEASE, PLEASE consider voting for my “Classes for Composting” project! Thank you!
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Have You Heard About Green Roofs?
There was a program, I think on The Discovery Channel (should've written it down, but didn't think of it at the time - obviously!) about two months ago about the concept of greening up roof tops. Some countries in Europe even mandate new buildings have green roofs! This program was filmed in an urban setting, with lots of apartment and office buildings that had flat, tar paper roofs at one time. Many of these roofs had been turned into gardens at the edge of the sky, with a variety of plantlife from mosses to wildflowers, and almost anything in between. The program made some very strong points in favor of this type of gardening because of it's impact on the environment:
Rain is absorbed into and by the plantlife and medium, to be released slowly through evaporation (an additional cooling factor). This reduces the chances of flooding in heaving rain. Additionally, the photosynthesis of the plant life removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere! Imagine if green roofs were required in the U.S.! What an impact it could make on our carbon footprint!
Green roofs also provide insulation to the room(s) below them, keeping it/them cooler in hot weather and warmer in cold. Clearly the insulating nature of green roofs will reduce energy consumption and thereby save on the costs of heating and cooling.
So now I bet, if you have any flat surfaces exposed to the outdoors, whether roof, deck, shed or outbuilding, you're probably thinking that having one of your own is a good idea! If you like the idea of having a green roof and have a large area to work on, you'll want to enlist the help of a structural engineer, and/or a company that makes living roofs. Smaller areas can most likely be tackled on your own. You'll need to keep in mind the structural frame of your roof before deciding on the type of green roof for you. You don't want a lot of heavy garden up there if your roof won't support it!
With that in mind, you should know that there are basically two types of green roofs:
- reducing temperature of the city
- weather protection for the roof
- reducing energy costs
- potential flood reduction
- providing habitat for wildlife - birds, butterflies and bugs
- cleaner air
- providing food
Rain is absorbed into and by the plantlife and medium, to be released slowly through evaporation (an additional cooling factor). This reduces the chances of flooding in heaving rain. Additionally, the photosynthesis of the plant life removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere! Imagine if green roofs were required in the U.S.! What an impact it could make on our carbon footprint!
Green roofs also provide insulation to the room(s) below them, keeping it/them cooler in hot weather and warmer in cold. Clearly the insulating nature of green roofs will reduce energy consumption and thereby save on the costs of heating and cooling.
So now I bet, if you have any flat surfaces exposed to the outdoors, whether roof, deck, shed or outbuilding, you're probably thinking that having one of your own is a good idea! If you like the idea of having a green roof and have a large area to work on, you'll want to enlist the help of a structural engineer, and/or a company that makes living roofs. Smaller areas can most likely be tackled on your own. You'll need to keep in mind the structural frame of your roof before deciding on the type of green roof for you. You don't want a lot of heavy garden up there if your roof won't support it!
With that in mind, you should know that there are basically two types of green roofs:
- A shallowly planted roof (for smaller areas)
- A more deeply planted roof (for larger areas)
Shallowly planted roofs can be planted with lichens, mosses, small alpines, grasses. For deeper planting areas, you might consider wildflowers and some shallow rooted vegetables (or potted, like those fab garbage can potatoes!!) Biodiversity is the idea, to provide more available habitat for the fauna.
Plant in early spring or early fall or you may find that hot weather may defeat your efforts. Use high quality 100% organic compost to provide a perfect blend of nutrients to your plants. Choose the right mix of plants (with suggestions from your friendly neighborhood nursery or college horticulture organization) and your garden will be low maintenance, requiring just a little weeding and deadheading to keep your garden looking great!
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Creating a Seed Starter Pot Out of Newspaper
I found a cool video to watch that teaches how to make starter pots for seeds out of newspaper that is well put together and includes simple six step-by-step instructions. I'm certainly going to try them this year, since I know I'm going to be starting those new variety of tomatoes from seed. Plus it's great when newspapers can be used and reused!
All you need is black and white print newspaper, a straight sided glass or jar, soil and seeds. You'll note that in the video, the presenter suggests using a full sheet of newspaper. I think that makes for a very sturdy pot, but a half a sheet is just as good for purposes of starting seedlings, and the newspaper will break down much quicker in the ground.
Speaking of the pot in the ground, when you watch the video, you'll note that it's recommended that you take the newspaper off before planting. I personally don't think that's a good idea, because no matter how careful you are, the delicate roots of the seedling are going to be disturbed by the removal. Instead, I recommend a good soaking of the root ball/newspaper pot, then carefully poking through the newspaper at 1/4 inch intervals around the pot and then planting the whole thing.
And when you plant your seedlings, remember to use organic compost mixed into the garden soil for the nutrients the plants need, and the water retaining properties of the amended soil. The nutrients will be in slow release mode and will continue to nourish your seedlings as they develop. The compost will reduce the need to water by helping the soil naturally retain the moisture in the soil.
So here's the link for this how-to video: ehow.com seed starting newspaper pots
Happy Composting!
All you need is black and white print newspaper, a straight sided glass or jar, soil and seeds. You'll note that in the video, the presenter suggests using a full sheet of newspaper. I think that makes for a very sturdy pot, but a half a sheet is just as good for purposes of starting seedlings, and the newspaper will break down much quicker in the ground.
Speaking of the pot in the ground, when you watch the video, you'll note that it's recommended that you take the newspaper off before planting. I personally don't think that's a good idea, because no matter how careful you are, the delicate roots of the seedling are going to be disturbed by the removal. Instead, I recommend a good soaking of the root ball/newspaper pot, then carefully poking through the newspaper at 1/4 inch intervals around the pot and then planting the whole thing.
And when you plant your seedlings, remember to use organic compost mixed into the garden soil for the nutrients the plants need, and the water retaining properties of the amended soil. The nutrients will be in slow release mode and will continue to nourish your seedlings as they develop. The compost will reduce the need to water by helping the soil naturally retain the moisture in the soil.
So here's the link for this how-to video: ehow.com seed starting newspaper pots
Happy Composting!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
I'm all into this!
The internet gardening community is really something. There are, seemingly, unlimited inventive ideas for growing things that often astonish me over and over again. Take, for example, the following article that details how to grow potatoes in a (clean) garbage can. Yep, you heard me, potatoes in a garbage can! I'm excited now, because with our garden plot I never thought that I could grow potatoes, and I do so love the way those homey vegetables stretch my food budget. So now I'm pretty confident that I can have my suburban garden plot with enough room for what I'd already planned for, AND my potatoes too! I happen to have an extra garbage can. We used to use it for actual garbage, but since our trash company added single stream recycling at the curb as a service, we only need one trash can. (BTW, we've increased our recycling bins from two to four - yes!)
That trash can is pretty groady though. I hate to say this, but it may be that it's never been properly cleaned out. So I'm going to take some BiOWiSH™ Bin Wash and have all those lovely enzymes do the work for me, set them loose on those germs, the mold and fungus until they've eaten it all up - 100% organically and environmentally safe. And when it's all cleaned up, I'll put in a good helping of the compost that we've been creating all winter with the help of BiOWiSH™ Compost Boost to provide those cured tater pieces with the perfect blend of nutrients to grow and multiply in. Bam! New potatoes for hubby and me. I think you'll enjoy this article from ezine.com as much as I did!
Happy Composting!
By GreenGardenChic
User-Submitted Article
Article Rating: (233 Ratings)
Why in the world would anyone want to grow a crop of potatoes in a plastic garbage can? Well let me tell you, potatoes grow deep, and it's hard to dig them all out! Plus, they like soft, well-prepared soil that's easy for them to root in. Then of course, they're space hogs, eating up precious planting room in the veggie garden. Last, but not least, potatoes should never be planted in the same place year after year, because they infect their own soil and cause next years crops to get blight (anyone remember a little potato famine that knocked down the population of Ireland?).
So for those of us who don't have much space in our gardens and can't or don't like to dig giant holes looking for our food, this is a great alternative. And for the city gardener , growing potatoes in garbage cans is perfect.
Instructions
1. Step 1
Grow new kinds you can't find at the grocery store.
Turn your garbage can upside down and drill several holes in the bottom of the can. Add a few around the outside wall, 3 to 6 inches up from the bottom. It's really important to have good drainage or your potatoes will rot in a hurry.
2. Step 2
Good soil is the key ingredient.
Dump about 2/3rds of your bag of potting soil in the can. Mix in 1 cup of your fertilizer and set aside.
3. Step 3
This potato could be cut into at least 4 pieces.
For your seed potatoes, small ones can be planted whole. The larger potatoes should be cut up into pieces with no less then 3 "eyes" per piece ("eyes" being those brown dimples that the roots will grow out of). Let your potatoes dry out on the cut side before you plant them.
4. Step 4
Once your cut potatoes have cured, plant them in your can 5 inches apart and cover with the remaining soil. You'll only need 4 starts to a can. Set the can in an area that receives 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight.
5. Step 5
Water thoroughly and keep the soil moist but not soggy during the growing season. Don't let the soil dry out or you'll end up with misshaped potatoes. On the hot summer days, your potato garbage can might even need to be watered daily (you might move the can to a slightly shadier location on the hottest days).
6. Step 6
Potato flowers
As the plants start to grow in the can, mound up compost around plant stems keeping the leaves uncovered. As they grow a little more, add some more compost. You'll be able to fill up the entire can with compost by the end of the growing season. Keep it watered.
7. Step 7
Fall harvest
At harvest time, you can wait for the flowers to start to fade and grow what looks like berries. Harvest a few potatoes now, by reaching into the soft soil and picking a few, then covering everything else back up with compost. These early potatoes are "new potatoes" and they spoil quickly, so eat them now. For your bigger, storing potatoes, wait to harvest after the green plants have turned brown and dried up or died back. Just dump the entire can over (onto a tarp, maybe) and pick out your potatoes. The soil can be collected and added to a flower garden. You just don't want to plant potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant in that potting soil/compost because the soil will likely harbor some insects or disease from this season's crop.
That trash can is pretty groady though. I hate to say this, but it may be that it's never been properly cleaned out. So I'm going to take some BiOWiSH™ Bin Wash and have all those lovely enzymes do the work for me, set them loose on those germs, the mold and fungus until they've eaten it all up - 100% organically and environmentally safe. And when it's all cleaned up, I'll put in a good helping of the compost that we've been creating all winter with the help of BiOWiSH™ Compost Boost to provide those cured tater pieces with the perfect blend of nutrients to grow and multiply in. Bam! New potatoes for hubby and me. I think you'll enjoy this article from ezine.com as much as I did!
Happy Composting!
By GreenGardenChic
User-Submitted Article
Article Rating: (233 Ratings)
Grow Potatoes in a Garbage Can
Why in the world would anyone want to grow a crop of potatoes in a plastic garbage can? Well let me tell you, potatoes grow deep, and it's hard to dig them all out! Plus, they like soft, well-prepared soil that's easy for them to root in. Then of course, they're space hogs, eating up precious planting room in the veggie garden. Last, but not least, potatoes should never be planted in the same place year after year, because they infect their own soil and cause next years crops to get blight (anyone remember a little potato famine that knocked down the population of Ireland?).
So for those of us who don't have much space in our gardens and can't or don't like to dig giant holes looking for our food, this is a great alternative. And for the city gardener , growing potatoes in garbage cans is perfect.
Instructions
1. Step 1
Grow new kinds you can't find at the grocery store.
Turn your garbage can upside down and drill several holes in the bottom of the can. Add a few around the outside wall, 3 to 6 inches up from the bottom. It's really important to have good drainage or your potatoes will rot in a hurry.
2. Step 2
Good soil is the key ingredient.
Dump about 2/3rds of your bag of potting soil in the can. Mix in 1 cup of your fertilizer and set aside.
3. Step 3
This potato could be cut into at least 4 pieces.
For your seed potatoes, small ones can be planted whole. The larger potatoes should be cut up into pieces with no less then 3 "eyes" per piece ("eyes" being those brown dimples that the roots will grow out of). Let your potatoes dry out on the cut side before you plant them.
4. Step 4
Once your cut potatoes have cured, plant them in your can 5 inches apart and cover with the remaining soil. You'll only need 4 starts to a can. Set the can in an area that receives 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight.
5. Step 5
Water thoroughly and keep the soil moist but not soggy during the growing season. Don't let the soil dry out or you'll end up with misshaped potatoes. On the hot summer days, your potato garbage can might even need to be watered daily (you might move the can to a slightly shadier location on the hottest days).
6. Step 6
Potato flowers
As the plants start to grow in the can, mound up compost around plant stems keeping the leaves uncovered. As they grow a little more, add some more compost. You'll be able to fill up the entire can with compost by the end of the growing season. Keep it watered.
7. Step 7
Fall harvest
At harvest time, you can wait for the flowers to start to fade and grow what looks like berries. Harvest a few potatoes now, by reaching into the soft soil and picking a few, then covering everything else back up with compost. These early potatoes are "new potatoes" and they spoil quickly, so eat them now. For your bigger, storing potatoes, wait to harvest after the green plants have turned brown and dried up or died back. Just dump the entire can over (onto a tarp, maybe) and pick out your potatoes. The soil can be collected and added to a flower garden. You just don't want to plant potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant in that potting soil/compost because the soil will likely harbor some insects or disease from this season's crop.
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